At the just-concluded National Two Sessions, "carbon peak" and "carbon neutrality" were written into the government work report for the first time, and the two concepts caught fire. Today, the "sense of distance" of "green development" in textile and chemical fiber enterprises has not only been eliminated, but also become the outlet targeted by many capitals. How to understand the "green development" of the textile industry from the perspective of the industrial chain? How to promote the "green development" of the entire industry from the end of textile raw materials? And how to grasp the textile opportunities nurtured by the upcoming "green reform"? In the spring Five exhibition of China Textile Industry Federation in Shanghai, a press conference with the theme of "green fiber" gave the answer.
On March 17, the "Green Fiber Certification Theme Conference" was held in the National Convention and Exhibition Center (Shanghai). Nearly 300 guests from leading industry associations, representatives of green fiber certification enterprises and representatives of downstream enterprises attended the conference. The conference focused on the certification of the "green fiber" industry chain, and for the first time released the comparison between the "Green Fiber Evaluation Technical Requirements" and the EU Eco-label, Oeko-Tex Standard100 and the domestic "Ecological Textile Technical Requirements" and other relevant standards, explaining the ecological and environmental protection attributes of green fibers in detail. It has drawn a blueprint of "green textile" for enterprises in the whole textile industry chain.
Policy orientation clear authentication mechanism escort
The "Proposal for the 14th Five-Year Plan" adopted at the Fifth Plenary Session of the 19th CPC Central Committee defines the development goals for 2035 and proposes to promote green development, promote harmonious coexistence between man and nature, and accelerate the formation of an economic mode of green and low-carbon development. The state proposed to strive to achieve the peak of carbon dioxide emissions before 2030 and achieve carbon neutrality before 2060, and the new development goals pointed out the important responsibility of strengthening carbon emissions for the chemical fiber industry. At the beginning of 2021, The State Council issued the Guiding Opinions of The State Council on Accelerating the Establishment and Improvement of the Green Low-carbon Circular Development Economic System, proposing to carry out the top-level design and system planning of the green standard system, and accelerate the construction of the green product certification system.
He Yanli, former vice president of the China Chemical Fiber Association, pointed out in his speech: "It can be seen that the national policy guidance is very clear, green development is a long-term direction, and the certification system will be an important safeguard measure." Chemical fiber industry is an important pillar industry with international competitive advantage and an important component of strategic emerging industries. As the source of the textile industry chain, the green development of chemical fiber is an important premise for the green upgrade of the entire textile industry chain, which is also the original intention of China Chemical Fiber Association to launch green fiber certification work in 2016. As the world's largest chemical fiber industry system, China's chemical fiber industry is duty-bound to break through the bottleneck of raw materials and technology, and promote the green and sustainable development of the industrial and consumer markets."
It is reported that since the China Chemical Fiber Association launched green fiber certification in the past five years, the scale of certification enterprises has expanded to 34, and some enterprises are reporting, has formed fiber and product certification matching management documents, the introduction of national certification bodies, is currently in accordance with the three-year action plan to promote the work step by step, Green fiber certification enterprises and products have also continued to appear frequently on platforms such as yarn shows, and the concept of "green life, starting from fiber" has gradually formed, and the brand effect has gradually emerged.
He Yanli called on the government, associations, enterprises, certification bodies to form a joint force, from the two aspects of policy guidance and market promotion to promote green fiber certification further bigger and stronger, expand the consumption of green fiber, so that the textile industry chain more green background color. She said: "I hope that in the future there will be more chemical fiber enterprises, as well as downstream spinning, fabrics, clothing, home textiles, industrial industry chain related enterprises to participate in green fiber certification and green fiber products, work together to create a better future for the green development of the textile industry!"
Standard to advance the scientific and advanced nature
"Green fiber" is an authoritative concept put forward by the China Chemical Fiber Industry Association. Before this, "green fiber" only existed in the workshop discussion of the textile chemical fiber circle, and there was no accurate, clear and professional definition.
In March 2016, registered by the State Administration for Market Supervision and Administration, the China Chemical Fiber Industry Association launched the chemical fiber green fiber certification work, with the Department of Consumer Goods Industry of the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology as the guiding unit. This work not only defined "Green Fiber" but also designed the green fiber logo - GF engraved on green leaves, conveying the chemical fiber industry's green commitment to humanity. The launch of green fiber certification aims to implement the new development concept of national innovation, coordination, green, open and sharing, accelerate the green process of chemical fiber industry, and realize the sustainable development of chemical fiber and textile industry.
The technical support and basis behind green fiber certification is the standard, specifically the "Green Fiber Evaluation Technical Requirements", which is a group standard issued by the China Chemical Fiber Industry Association, first released in 2018, and revised in 2019. At present, there are similar international standards and certifications in the field of green textiles and ecological textiles, so what are the characteristics and advantages of green fiber certification standards? At this press conference, Zhao Qingzhang, senior consultant of green fiber certification and chairman of ISO/TC38 textile Standard Committee, studied the above content.
Zhao Qingzhang pointed out that the revised "Technical Requirements for Green Fiber Evaluation" (T/CCFA 02007-2019) in 2019 classified the quality attribute indicators of green fiber, and further clarified the limited substances and limited values. The quality attribute is the innovation of the current version of "Requirements". The standard lists 12 variety attribute indicators and requirements for recycling chemical fibers, 14 chemical fibers for stock solution coloring, and 10 biological based chemical fibers. "For brands, these quality attributes and the limited substance content of the fiber are important indicators for their procurement," Zhao Qingzhang said.
Zhao Qingzhang compared the current standards of China's textile harmful substances limited requirements and the EU REACH regulations, the EU Eco-label eco-label, OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, ZDHC production restricted substances list and other international more used EU related regulations and standards, he pointed out: "Green fiber evaluation technical requirements standard refers to GB18401, in the index and limit value setting, reference to the OEKO-TEX 100 standard, certification standards for fiber is also divided into three categories, that is, infant products, direct contact with skin products, non-direct contact with skin products; The certification standard refers to the standard of textiles, and limits the limited substances that may be involved in the fiber. The harmful substances produced by the dyeing and finishing process are not taken into account, which is the innovation of the standard. In addition, the certification standard is actually a collection of environmental standards, cleaner production standards and product quality standards.
Zhao Qingzhang said that in the next 40 years, the important main line of China's green low-carbon work will be carbon peak and carbon neutrality, from the perspective of green fiber certification, it is necessary to establish a measurable, reportable and verifiable evaluation method standard for certified products to determine the carbon emission value of each variety. For the category of restricted substances and the limited value and detection method, it is also necessary to learn from international standards to accurately measure the limited substances in chemical fiber, reduce the negative impact of green trade barriers, and reduce the unnecessary burden on enterprises.
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